Showing posts with label Vietnam. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vietnam. Show all posts

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Favorite Places part III: Hue, Vietnam

My time in Hue was pretty great for a number of reasons. First of all, I met allot of fellow travelers from all over the world, and we partied like it was 1999. We frequented this bar in downtown Hue, next to some of our friend's hostel, because the beers were so cheap. One night about twelve of us where drinking there all night, beer after beer, and were very pleasantly surprised when we got our bill and it was about $14. I also went and checked out the former DMZ, which was a treat for a war history buff such as my self. At the DMZ signs can be seen everywhere warning of land mines left over from the war.


US tanks on display near the DMZ



From my hotel it was a few miles walk to get to the Purple Forbidden Palace of Hue. Situated on the Perfume river, I don't think I've ever seen such beautiful ruins in my life. Castles with motes, court yards with dragon statues, pagodas with monks; top all this off with very foggy, drizzly, almost mysterious weather and the mood is really set.

 The place is perfectly landscaped and taken care of, and around every corner I expected to find monks lined up practicing kung fu, karate kid style. The city is huge, I walked through it for an hour, but eventually I came to the areas the guide books warn you about; the parts bombarded during the war and never rebuilt.












Hue's central location positions it very near the North and South Vietnamese DMZ, Hue being just south of the border. On January 31, 1968, the first day of the new year on the traditional lunar calendar, also known as tet, year of the monkey and the most important Vietnamese holiday, Northern Vietnamese forces launched the largest military offensive of the Vietnam war. Though it was announced that both sides would take a two day break from the war in honor of the new year, communist forces sent waves of around 80,000 forces south of the border. The battle of Hue was fierce and savage fighting there lasted a month, during which time the communist executed thousands of residents resulting in what is now known as the Massacre of Hue. During all of this, much of the Forbidden City was destroyed by the US and it's allies. Despite all of this, and the failure to rebuild for the most part, Hue, in my book, is still one of the most beautiful places on Earth.

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

The Purple Forbiden City of Hue

Dodge the ricshaw, step out of the way of the family teetering past on a scooter, apologise for bumping into a passer by, ogle the padthai in the street-side food stall, ignore the restaurant tout, deny money to 2 beggers, 1 hooker and a sun-glasses sales man and... you are in Hue. Walk a little farther and you are in the Imperial Forbiden city.




In the early 19th century, Emperor Gia Long comanded that an Imperial city, inspirired by the Forbidden City in Beijing, be constructed in Hue. Tens of thousands of workers were conscripted to build a ten kilometer mote and dirt wall, wich was later replaced be a stone wall three meters thick. The citadel was situated facing east towards the Perfume river.  When done, the Purple Forbiden City was huge. However in 1968 during the war, the United States orderd the city of Hue to be retaken, to establish the DMZ. Bombs destroyed most of the city, which was a supprise to me, considering how much of it was left standing. When the city was declared a World Heritage Site, a lot of it was rebuilt, but most of it was converted into huge rice fields. The day I was there, the weather was cloudy and foggy, creating an awesome mystique to the place.


Since Hue is the former DMZ from the war, there were some American military pieces on display around the city, including a guided tour that took you to the main areas of fighting, where you were warned not to stray from the paths, for fear of land mines.


Thursday, March 3, 2011

Scenes from 'Nam






From Hochi Minh City, Jae and I hoped onto a sleeper bus that would take us the 24 hours to Hoi An. A sleeper bus is a big bus that looks like it is filled with bunk beds, the only difference being that the beds can recline up to a sitting position. Cheaper and faster than a train. The only downside was that I could see some of the most beautiful country on earth, but was going to fast to take pictures. At 50 or 60 kph, not many pictures came out. We passed huge rice fields, with nothing but green from the road all the way to a great mountain backdrop a few kilometers off. There were little paths worn into the fields, making them not one big field, but many smaller fields, perfectly squared off. Sometimes in the middle of a field a pointy, cone shaped hat could be seen umungst the tall rice shoots, with a person under it, maybe picking weeds. Around midnight I realized that I was the only one on the bus still awake, enjoying the scenery. Right about then our highway seemed to merge with the coast line, and for hours we drove parrallel to an amazing view of both beach and ocean. That was the moment I thought to myself that life could not get much better. Due to low light conditions, added to it raining and the fact that we were on the constant move, I was unable to procure a single picture, and frankly was in to much of a state of shock to really think about trying to do so. They say a picture is worth a thousand words, but since I don't have any, hopefully I can write a blog worth a thousand pictures. It would have to be a masterpiece to be able to convey my exact experiance, but I'll try.



First of all, to try and get you into a simular state of mind as I was at the time, I will have to first describe to you my surroundings. Imagine being in a bus with 30 people, and having about 3/4 of them being beautiful girls from various parts of Europe. This might not do it for you ladies, but stick with me. I had been seeing the most beautiful country side that I've seen on this trip yet for the last five or six hours, and coupled with the beautiful scenery INSIDE the bus, I was in a very happy and content mood. Then, around mid-night, I realized that I was the only one awake, giving me the peaceful feeling that comes with that. As I look out the big window, I realise that it is raining steadily, and that for me is a very peaceful thing in and of itself. Beyond the Beautiful girls in the dark bus, and the rain pouring down the window with it's consiquential pleasant smell, is the majestic ocean and all it's splendor. At first all I notice in the darkness is the white, curling waves that are crashing onto the abandoned, sandy beach not 100 yards away. On this sandy beach are intermitten palm trees, some bent so low to the water that their leaves seem to almost be touching, as if offering their bounty to the verticaly challenged. Then I look beyond that and notice rows and rows of sleepy little fishing boats with a couple lights each, all anchored offshore, rocking gently in unison with each other, just waiting for daylight. Beyond the boats even farther, is the shadow of a tall, rocky island with the moon shining it's light from behind it illuminating the whole ordeal. All of this put together makes for one of the greatest scenes anyone can fathom. It was like staring at a screen saver, all while smelling and feeling and experiancing it too.
As if this wasn't enough, I then realise that all of this breath taking scenery, is only what's to my right. On my left is towering cliffs that we had been skirting, that remind me of driving through Debeque canyon back home, making me, for the first time, a tad home sick. The cliffs are just as beautiful as they are back home, and when you add to it the great ocean scene, and a nice beach that we light up at each turn the bus makes towards the water, you get an inner peace like you've never experianced before. This feeling was undoubtadly hightened by the simple fact that I was not on vacation. I wasn't in Corpus or Lake Powell or the Keys, having a great time yet dreading deep down that when the weekend is over, it's back to the grind. No, I'm on my adventure, with no end in sight, and theres nothing depressing about that. Inwardly I smile, life doesn't get much better than this. I have the beautiful Jae sleeping in her seat a couple feet to my left, and the almost as beautiful ocean views to my right, all at the same time as I head foward to our next adventure.